The Stadelmann family – father and son Nicholas and Thomas, along with their wives, Hildi and Marianne – exemplify the revolutionary Swiss cheesemakers who, in the 1980s, decided to split away from the Tilsiter Consortium. Taking the risk to shift from wider production to smaller organic production has proved enormously worthwhile. Unterwasser is distinct insofar as it wears its seasonality at the forefront. At various times throughout the year the pate – which ranges from a creamy white in winter cheeses, to a rich gold in the summer and fall varieties – undergoes massive shifts in flavour on the palate. Winter versions have a light, clean, almost toasted-brioche sweetness, whereas the summer milk cheeses condense into deep nutty overtones. An impressive cheese.