A log-shaped, close-textured cheese, traditionally impaled with a straw for ease of handling. (Today the straw is laser-printed with the specifics of each cheese-maker, ensuring nifty traceability.) The pate is a creamy white, and at various times throughout the year melts below the rind. Mild and rich, the flavour is notably lower in salt than its fellow Loire Valley goat's cheeses. Dusted in charcoal ash, the cheese pairs perfectly with white wines of the region.