This brine-washed cheese has a collar band of pine, not only to protect the cheese from splitting, but also to impart a herbaceous flavour. The dairy is at the foot of Mont Revard by the Lac du Bourget, which is not far from Chambery (the capital of Savoie). The rind is washed during its five-week maturing period in the caves, and turns a lovely pinky-beige. The flavours are fruity and the texture – given the time of year and degree of affinage – wavers between chewy and an almost runny suppleness. Good with Chignin Bergeron white wine or Mondeuse red.