This rarity from Canton Vaud is produced in a truly traditional manner, in copper vats over an open wood fire. (In the chalets one can watch the ashes rise from the fire, circulate in the rafters, and fall into the open vats of milk, lending a barely detectable smokiness to the finished cheeses.) During the summer and early autumn the cattle graze on more than one-hundred-thirty alps between the glaciers of Les Diablerets and the vineyards of Lake Geneva. The cheeses are matured in a modern cellar in the village of Etivaz. Held up against modern Swiss cooked-pressed cheeses, L'Etivaz is a lone small window into how all Gruyères may have once tasted. Produced using milk exclusively from the summer months, the flavours have depths that border on pineapple and other tropical fruits, while still being very indicative of the terroir. An important cheese, boldly carrying the torch of tradition.