Developed in 1979 by Jeffa Gill, this handmade farmhouse brine-washed cheese uses morning milk from two herds of Friesians. The curds are cut by hand in a Swiss-style copper vat, pressed into moulds, then washed and aged on the farm. A few tiny eyelets scatter through the pate, which is soft and supple and surrounded by a pinky beige rind. After we receive the cheeses we mature them slightly longer, giving them another brine-wash, allowing the mild fruitiness to develop a definitive toffy undertone. Indelible.