Produced at the small dairy of Walter Rass – just northeast of Zurich – this cheese is made with respect paid to Appenzeller, its most direct forebear, which Rass has slightly tweaked to much success. Washed in wine, rubbed in spices and aged in cellars for a minimum of ten months, the depth of flavour drawn from such short affinage is unbelievable. With a sweet hazelnut aroma and a texture like a slightly chewier Gruyère, with very fine crystallisation, this cheese has a full robust taste. With moreish depths of salted caramel and nuts and buttery browned toast, it is hard to resist.